Top 10 they say

After some not-so-interesting time in San Jose and in the skyscraper-heavy obviously-undergoing-explosive-growth and very large Panama City, we’re in the airport (after an early morning — 4:30 — rise) waiting for a flight to the San Blas islands to stay with the Kuna Yala Indians — the airport is full of people with heavy beadwork and large gold septum jewelry. From the photos it looks like we should expect Polynesian-style stick buildings perched on stilts on the ends of docks off tiny islands, a level of quiet defined only by our neighbors, all under a rich star-filled sky. There are 365 of them in all in the San Blas group, and if I’m to believe what I read online, they’re among the top ten snorkeling destinations in the world. Many of the islands are off-grid, with solar power and little to no communication, so I doubt I’ll be posting until I’m back in Toronto at week’s end unless plans change. After we land at the small regional airport, using a Dash-8 prop plane, we’ll travel by boat to our final destination. Wish us luck, as we’ve had some trouble getting these plans confirmed in advance and are hoping we won’t just be sleeping on the beach — not that such a fate would be all that bad!

Picture notes: These are my getting into Panama city pictures… The first photo is a creepy dude that was at the hotel with three VERY young prostitutes, one young boy and two young girls. Icky. I’d say 75% of the guys at the hotel were there for sex tourism.

Sloth Visit

Yesterday was a day of much driving… We went from La Fortuna all the way east through the kind of scummy port town of Limon and then forty minutes further to arrive after almost five hours of driving at the sloth rescue that Caitlin had so been looking forward to. We began that visit with a slow canoe trip up and down the surrounding river to do not much more than bask in the sun, and occasionally feel grateful for the shade of tall bamboo and other foliage, and bird watch. When we got back, we watched an informational video which was thankfully — no offense to education, but hands-on with sloths is better — cut short by a power failure.

Then we got to visit with (and pet) various supercute sloths, both the two-toed and three-toed variety, starting with a three limbed fellow who had come to the sanctuary after a mishap with an electrical cable necessitated an amputation. They also had a pair of twins, a rarity in the sloth world, and lots of funny slow-moving pop-eyed baby sloths being fed milk by syringe and then being taken out for crawls in the grass. “Queen Buttercup”, who had been at the sloth rescue for a decade and a half if I remember right, watched over the whole thing from her throne. I have lots of shots to post when I get back — although I did manage to both damage my camera and lose the charger, so I’m not sure what I’m going to do when I run out of battery!!!

After the sloth visit I really wanted to go swimming — I think that’s really my favorite thing to do and I could spend the whole day in the ocean if I was allowed — and we drove for about an hour (thanks to some mis-navigating) past Playa Negra and all the way down to Punta Uva where a reef meets the beach. The water was quite rough, so I couldn’t dive with the fish, which is what I’d been hoping for, but we did have a lot of fun swimming, playing in the waves, and building sand castles on the all-but-deserted beach.

Supper was small, at a little beach restaurant, and then I drove another three hours and a half hours, back to San Jose, since the car has to be returned today. Nefarious and I got up early for the hotel’s buffet breakfast of hash browns, pancakes, fresh fruit, and rice and beans, and then went for a walk around the downtown. My glasses should be waiting for me at the optician around the corner, so I guess I’ll do that, and then we’ll do some city stuff today and likely fly to Panama City in the next day or two.

A day of white water

Nefarious, Dave, and I went white water rafting today — on the Balsa River (I was wrong about yesterday, which was actually on the River Blanca) — for my and Nefarious’s first time, so I think the choice of class three rapids was about right. It was plenty bumpy with the occasional risk of falling overboard into the river or flipping the raft altogether, and lots of slides down mini-waterfalls with big crashes at the bottom with violent waves splashing over the side, and the more-than-occasional crashes into boulders in our path. The ride itself took two and a half hours and Nefarious did great, not just holding on tight, but listening to all the instructions from our guide on when to shift her weight around. She — and all of us — had lots of fun, and were completely drenched by the end of it. Well, not by the end of it. By the first five minutes, and then again, over and over and over! It sure was nice coming back to shore with fresh pineapple and watermellons waiting for us, and then a hot meal of rice, fish, veggies, beans, plantain, and goat cheese. Not that it was the focus, but on the smoother class two stretches we had time for some sightseeing, not just of egrets, herons, eagles, kingfishers, vultures, and other birds, but also the many bright green lizards skittering over the rocks along the shoreline. All in all a super adventure that I will remember fondly and I hope is one of Nefarious’s childhood highlights.

Also on the ride (split across two rafts, as well as a rescue guy with stretched lobes sans-jewelry in the rescue raft) were a couple of adventure travel dudes from Hawaii, and some Bush-loving Christian Republicans from North Carolina, accent and all. We were talking to the guide about Costa Rica, and he was proudly speaking about how self-sufficient it is, with massive exports of all kinds including renewable power (they have wind, water, and geothermal generation, as well as lots of biofuels, with a real emphasis on sustainability and long-term health of the nation and environment) and food of all sorts, and how they have great free education and healthcare, and so on… He really started losing them when he talked about how in Costa Rica, people look not to the person who’s richer than them (and then live a life of envy and greed as they try and get rich themselves) but to the one who is poorer (both to remind them of the riches of the simple and stable life they already have, and to show them that they need to help those around them), but when he talked about how Costa Rica was a nearly two century old democracy that had dissolved their military sixty years ago, they couldn’t get it at all, blurting out, “but what will you do when you get invaded?!?!?”

As if!!!

He tried to explain to them that Costa Rica aims to spread peace, and that their nation’s leaders travel extensively throughout the world encouraging other nations to stop being so warlike, but they thought it was completely bizarre. I was about to get in an argument with them about healthcare — even though the guy’s job was in the bankruptcy industry and he agreed that healthcare (or as he put it, “it’s not the insurance companies fault, it’s just bad luck”) was the biggest cause of bankruptcy, he thought the current for-profit US system was the best they could get — but decided it wasn’t how I wanted to spend my day, so I had an interesting chat on the ride with his wife, who homeschools their four children. Now, I like homeschooling because I’m into unschooling and freerange kids, whereas I guess they have a problem with queer teachers and evolution, but still, we found plenty in common and avoided black eyes and it was quite pleasant chatting with people who are fairly alien to me in their life views.

And RIP to WWF surface piercing pioneer Captain Lou Albano, who almost always wore rubber bands through a piercing on the surface of his cheek, making him arguably the inventor of flexible jewelry (predating by a decade things like Tygon)… I wrote about him ages ago on BME at my friend Saira’s suggestion. I see these notes about how BME is looking for someone to take over running it and want to put up my hand and say “I’ll do it!” because I’d love to be blogging about bodmod again, but I’m quite certain that it wouldn’t be worth jumping through the legal hoops to achieve. I suppose I’ve had my turn, and am in a different line these days. But what good memories, even if I can’t turn back time!

Tomorrow morning it’s off to the sloth rescue!

A lazy river safari

We’re staying in La Fortuna right now, at the foot of Arenal volcano. This morning Nefarious and I were up early and it was clear and cloudless, so we watched the volcano spew ash into the sky before going for a morning swim. In about an hour we’ll be leaving to go white water rafting, and then probably spend the night here, and leave in the morning for a four hour or so drive to go to the sloth reserve. I’ve been getting a surprising amount of writing done as well.

Yesterday we went on a “river safari”, rafting down a very gentle river — Balsa River if I remember right (but I might not) — and when we got there, at our start point, was a big frilled lizard and two sloths up in the tree, a mother and a baby. As we went down the river, which was beautiful with the vegetation alone, lush trees and vines and plants of all sorts and huge grasses and massive bamboo stands and many logs to avoid from the previous day’s flooding, we saw a number of animals including more sloths, lots of birds, and a big turtle. We also saw a few trees full of howler monkeys that make a huge hooting racket as we shouted back at them with the alpha male shaking the tree to scare us off, and we also saw a big (well, a young ten foot long) crocodile basking on the river bed. The water was low, so the crocs felt vulnerable to humans, and we saw less than normal. We also passed under a low tree that was covered in little bats only a few feet over our heads… I took lots of photos and will post them on our return, but unfortunately I did not get one of macaque that I know is everyone’s favorite. Hahahaa…

At the end of the river journey we stopped at a farm for snacks of grilled plantain, which tasted like wonderful sweet pancakes, and fresh home made cheese, light with a sort of mozzarella essence, and Nefarious played with their puppy and together they chased a white rabbit around the grounds of the farm, amid goats, pigs, cows, and horses. That night in La Fortuna we went to an amazing restaurant and I had tilapia, presented whole and stuffed with vegetables and cheese, and possibly fished from the river we had just explored.

It’s been nice staying so online as well. I’m very impressed at Costa Rica’s infrastructure — the power and communication grid seems really thorough, and no matter how remote we get, there still seems to be a cell phone signal as well. Just outside town we drove through a massive wind farm, and the rivers here power hydroelectric stations as well. The roads also seem well maintained, which can’t be easy given how wet the country is.

Anyway… Off to the rapids!

Zip Lines

Today we did a crazy amount of driving through the mountains… It’s nuts that you can have something that’s twenty kilometers as the crow flies, but thanks to winding gravel roads climbing to ear-popping heights, it takes three hours to get the distance. This drive took us to a national park in an amazing rain forest where we did a “canopy tour”, shooting over the forest on zip lines. The longest was a full kilometer, and the next shortest was 750 m, and the total of all fifteen must have been around 4 km in all. Nefarious had a great time doing it, shouting that she wanted to go again after we completed the set. A very brave six year old! After the zip lines we went for another hike through the rain forest, crossing eight huge suspension bridges spread out over 3 km. After that, another ridiculous twisty drive, and we’ve ended up in Arenal where Costa Rica’s most active volcano is — still spewing lava, exploding, and blowing ash on a daily basis.

Not sure what tomorrow holds… perhaps white water rafting.